Yurt Instruction Sheet

Yurt InstructionsPlease note that yurts are flexible structures, and will can go up slightly differently every time you use them.

Sighting Your Yurt

Consider carefully where you are going to put your yurt before starting work, particularly if you are going to leave it up long term. Don’t place it closer than 1 metre from a fence, wall or hedge, this allows air to circulate freely around the walls and prevent damp and rotting of the canvas. Similarly don’t place the yurt under trees, this also traps damp and you get a lot of dirt fallout from foliage, which can cause spot rotting and stain the cover.
Ideally place the yurt on a slight rise to allow free drainage, or level the site and give about a 5 cm deep sand base under the groundsheet ensuring there are no sharp stones etc that may damage the groundsheet.

The Yurt Frame

  1. If you have a fitted groundsheet lay this out first. Make sure you have the door cutout where you want the door, preferably not facing into the wind. If it is raining you can put the groundsheet in after the yurt is up, by carefully lifting the trellis and tucking the groundsheet under.
  2. The trellis goes up next. When you look at your trellis folded up you will see it is not flat, but has a slight curve to it, like this bracket _). The curve should be to the outside of the yurt as you open the trellis, like this (__) the walls will then be straight when you have opened the trellis fully.
  3. Spread out the sections tight to the wall of the groundsheet. The two sections either side of the door each have four long laces to the outside of the yurt. The back section has an extra ‘horn’ and two laces at each end. These extra horns lock into the next trellis section and are tied in with the laces.
  4. The knot that is used throughout the construction of the yurt is the ‘clove hitch’. It is quick and easy to tie, and untie but is very strong; the harder you pull on it the tighter it gets, but it will still undo easily.
  5. Position the door/doorframe. The frame is then tied to the outside of the trellis, the trellis now being inside the doorframe, by threading the laces trough the appropriate holes, marked with a ‘T’, and tying with a clove hitch back to the trellis.
  6. The trellis is spread correctly when all the ‘diamonds’ are square, and the top of the trellis is all at the same level, if you are on level ground.
  7. Now fit the Wall Band! It is very important to fit the wall band now. If you don’t, when you put the roof up the yurt will collapse! The wall band passes through the doorframe, either side of the top trellis lace through the slots cut, and runs around the top of the trellis back to the other doorpost. The webbing simply passes through the buckle around the black bar and back again. You may find the band is a little loose to begin with. Once the roof starts to go up it will get tighter as the pressure is applied to the walls.
  8. Take the roof wheel and three roof ribs into the center of the yurt. Tie the first rib to the top of the first section of trellis next to the door, using a clove hitch to secure. Count round one third of the trellis and tie on the second rib. Slot these two ribs into their corresponding holes on the roof wheel. Align the roof wheel so as to have a gap in the bracing facing the door.
  9. Count around one third of the holes in the roof wheel and insert the third roof rib into that hole. Carefully push the wheel into the air and tie the third rib off to its corresponding trellis section. You may find it useful to have a friend hold the wheel up while doing this pushing the wheel up with a fourth rib, particularly with 18ft yurts and larger.
  10. The rest of the roof ribs can now be fitted. Start with every third rib, to give the wheel general all round support. At this point double-check the trellis and the circumference of your yurt, as it is easier to adjust without the full roof on. When you are happy fit the rest of the ribs. Leave a rib out to the back of the roof to use as a push stick for pushing the canvas on. The three straight ribs tie to the top of the doorframe. One will be slightly shorter than the other two; this is the centre rib above the door. Wide doors have four ribs over them.


The Cover

  1. Unroll the roof section, but don’t unfold it. You should have a triangle of canvas in front of you. Make sure the door cutout in the roof is underneath, and then fold the canvas zigzag fashion, so the edge that will be next to the roof wheel is on the top. Lift the canvas onto the roof above the door. There is a cord attached to the top of the canvas. Throw this over the yurt to come down through the roof wheel. If you pull on this cord it will pull the canvas up to the roof wheel, tie the cord off to the trellis to prevent the canvas slipping back down.
  2. Attach the canvas to the doorframe using the metal fittings. This will stop the canvas from moving as you spread it out. Simply push the chrome eyelets onto the metal spigots.
  3. Unfold the canvas sections around the roof to cover half the yurt. It should now be obvious that the roof canvas is folded in half, and using your saved rib, push it up and over the rest of the roof. Adjust the canvas by pulling it down so that it is even around the roof wheel.
  4. Now lift the edge of the roof canvas. Underneath you will find a separate flap with eyelets and a draw cord. If this is on the outside, (eyelets are visible from outside) your roof is on inside out! Tie one end of the cord to the doorpost through the trellis side hole in the frame. Go to the other side of the door and pull the draw cord tight. Pull until it moves the frame in from the wall band and then gently release it so it is just tight enough and then tie it off (clove hitch again).
  5. The wall section has small brass hooks riveted into the top of it. These are to hook onto the draw cord in the roof, simply start one side of the door and work your way round.
  6. Pull the roof wheel cap over the top and tie down to the pegs provided. If you have fitted the wheel with the gap in it’s bracing facing the door, then the flue collar (if you have one) will fall neatly into place, and a peg will be on either side of the door. Ensure the seams are not visible when fitting so that the plastic window is on the outside of the canvas for runoff of rain. Move the cap and remove regularly to air the canvas below, and let the sun on to the canvas to reduce the risk of mildew.


If you have a felt liner you will need to fit it before the canvas goes on, serge liners can be fitted afterwards if you wish. NEVER fit liners until you have ‘weathered’ the canvas – see the note below, or you may have problems with leaking.

The roof felt goes on in much the same way as the roof canvas.

The wall felt hooks onto the wall band, but goes between the wall band and the trellis with the hooks facing out wards. The wall felt does not reach the ground to prevent any wicking of water that may be on the ground. This also allows for some airflow through the canvas at ground level.

If you have a fully lined yurt and intend to leave it unattended at any time you will need additional ventilation to prevent any condensation problems.


Remember your tent can BURN. Camp safely, follow theses common sense rules.
When sighting ensure a minimum distance of 6m between adjacent tents or awnings.
Do not place cooking, heating or lighting appliances near the sides or roof.
Always observe the safety instructions for these appliances.
Never allow children to play near lighted appliances.
Keep exits clear.
Make sure you know the fire precaution arrangements on the site.

Be very careful with wood burning stoves, and always place them on a stone slab or similar. Have a fire extinguisher handy, and never leave unattended. All our canvas is supplied with a fire retardant finish, but this does not last forever and will need to be re-proofed from time to time. NEVER use candles in a tent, they are responsible for the majority of tent fires. Fire retardant proofing does not prevent the canvas from burning, but the fire will extinguish once the source of ignition is removed. It is primarily intended to give you time to escape.

Canvas Care

  1. ALWAYS put your covers away DRY. Pay particular attention to thick seams, and joins to vinyl windows and sod cloth, which dry slowly.
  2. All the canvas is factory proofed, but this proofing will not last forever. It is hard to say how long the proofing will last because every tent leads a different life. However you should not have to worry for the first three years under normal use. Use your judgment as to when you think your cover needs re-proofing. Pay special attention to the fireproofing, particularly if your tent is for public use. Ask for a copy of the fire certificate if you need it.
  3. Life of the canvas cannot be guaranteed, due to so many variables, but we only use the highest quality canvas available.
  4. While most of our canvas fabrics are treated with a mildew inhibitor, local environmental conditions combined with how the tent is used and stored may reduce the effectiveness of this treatment. Albion Canvas cannot be held responsible for mildew growth.
  5. Any faults in manufacture should be reported to us within a reasonable time of receipt, and we will put them right as soon as possible.
  6. Newly manufactured tents need to be weathered before use, to seal all seams. This simply means to put the tent up and allow it to get wet; either from rain or dew, or use a hose. Occasionally you may get some leakage through the canvas if this isn’t done, but once wetted the canvas will swell and seal all small holes. It should also be remembered that canvas is a breathable fabric and is not therefore 100% waterproof. However with care you will have very few problems.
  7. If you have a liner please ensure you have weathered your tent first before fitting the liner. If the liner gets wet it will ‘wick’ moisture through the canvas.
  8. Rubbing a wax candle over the canvas will often seal small holes and leaks.
  9. The seam around the cap where the window joins the canvas can leak occasionally. Simply wipe in with your finger some clear silicone sealant into the stitch holes to seal it.
  10. From time to time your frame will need another coat of linseed oil, apply a first coat diluted with 20% turpentine. Allow to dry for 1 hour and wipe off any excess. Allow 24 hours before applying a neat topcoat; again wipe off any excess after 1 hour.
  11. Re-oil your door and doorframe every year before storing, and avoid strong sun directly onto your wooden door.
  12. Store your frame and particularly trellis upright. If you lay the trellis down make sure the curve is supported so it won’t straighten out.
  13. As has long been recognized in the trade the pigment in coloured canvas can rub off, and will fade when exposed to sunlight.
  14. Canvas cleaner and re-proofer are always available from us.